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New
Foods of the Old West from the Famous Denver Restaurant
The
Fort Cookbook: New Foods of the Old West from the Famous
Denver Restaurant chronicles the life of this singular
eatery by presenting recipes from its earliest days and throughout
its near-forty-year history. There are the unforgettable
favorites that helped make The Fort beloved, such as White
Cheese Shrimp Enchiladas and Rocky Mountain Oysters, as well
as new spins on Old West Classics, such as Gonzales Steak
stuffed with green chiles and Buffalo Burgers, not to mention
enough fabulous steak recipes to make a beef lover swoon.
Arnold's inventive cuisine ranges from unfamiliar recipes
for increasingly available ostrich and elk to such southwestern
comfort food as Blue Corn Blueberry Muffins, Lakota Indian
Fry Bread, and Chocolate Chile Cake.
From our Fort in the Rocky
Mountains to your dinner table, we extend to you some of our most
famous recipes our customers have been loving for over 40 years.
WAUGH!
-Sam'l
Arnold and Holly Arnold Kinney |
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To purchase The Fort Cookbook, call (303) 697.4771 |
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Teriyaki
Quail
The West was built in good part by Chinese
and Japanese immigrants who supplied both hands and brains
to build railroads and cities, ranches and farms. Also, some
of the first trappers who had been brought to our northwest
coast by John Jacob Astor were Hawaiians. It is not surprising,
therefore, that teriyaki came to the West early on.
At the Fort we serve well over one thousand
of these quail a week. We start with partially deboned birds
so that the little rib cage has been removed. The legs, thighs,
and wings are still attached, and with the large breast, quail
makes a delicious dish when two or three birds are served.
1 cup |
soy sauce |
1/2 cup |
Mirin rice wine or dry sherry |
1/4 cup |
sugar |
2 tbsp |
minced fresh ginger |
3 |
cloves garlic, finely minced or smashed |
2 |
whole anise (found in Asian section of most groceries or
in bulk at natural food stores; optional) |
1/4 cup |
finely chopped orange peel |
1 cup |
orange juice |
1 cup |
water |
8 |
2 1/2 to 3 1/2 ounce partially deboned quail |
4 |
orange slices for garnish |
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Combine all the marinade
ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high
heat. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Let cool.
Place the quail in a single layer in
a pan, pour the marinade over, and let the quail marinade
for 2 - 4 hours. Beware of leaving the birds in for more
than 8 hours because they will become unpalatably salty.
When ready to cook the quail, heat the
grill to medium or preheat the broiler. Cook the quail
for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Garnish with a twisted
orange slice. |
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Jalapeño's
Stuffed with Peanut Butter
Lucy Delgado, well known in the 1960s as a
traditionalist New Mexican cook, taught me to stuff peanut
butter into peppers. "These are the best appetizers I
know," she told me during one of our recipe swaps. "But
if I show you how to make them, you have to promise to try
them." Peanut butter - stuffed jalapeños! I vowed
I would taste them even though they sounded stranger than a
five-legged buffalo. She prepared some and said, as a last
word of instruction, "Pop the entire pepper into your
mouth so you're not left with a mouthful of hot jalapeño
and too little peanut butter." I gamely took the little
morsel by the stem, and in it went. Miracle! Delicious!
Fearful of serving them to guests but eager
to try them out on friends, I made them for my own parties
until they became so popular that I put them on the menu. When
NBC's Today show came to Denver, Bryant Gumbel ate
eight of them in a row. (Jane Pauley would have none of it.)
One 12-ounce can pickled jalapeño
peppers
1 1/2 cups peanut butter (smooth or chunky)
Slice the pickled jalapeños in half
lengthwise not quite all the way through, leaving the 2 halves
attached at the stem end. Using a knife or spoon, remove the
seeds and ribs under running water. Pack the halves with peanut
butter, press together, and arrange on a serving plate. Be
sure to warn guests to put the whole pepper (except the stem)
in the mouth before chewing, to get 70 percent peanut butter
and 30 percent jalapeño. A nibbler squeezes out the
peanut butter, changing the percentages and making it very
hot indeed.
A fun variation is to mix Major Grey's chutney
with the peanut butter. It gives a nice fruity sweetness that
also buffers the burn.
Buying Pickled Jalapeño Peppers
Begin with a good brand of picked jalapeños
from Mexico: Faro and Clemente Jacques are both excellent.
Look for the words en escabeche, which means the peppers
are pickled in a liquid of vinegar, vegetable and sesame oils,
bay leaf, and sliced onions and carrots. California produced
jalapeños are usually pickled in a liquid in plain vinegar.
Avoid them. Also keep an eye out for desirable thick-walled
peppers. One popular Texas-brand pepper is thin-walled and
doesn't work very well.
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Pumpkin
Walnut Muffins
A 1975 Fort menu reads, "The pumpkin
nut muffins are a closely guarded secret; the recipe is asked
for nightly but never revealed." The secret ingredient
is no secret at all: It's the pumpkin. These muffins contain
about twice as much as other recipes. Because of that, they're
cooked for a long time at an unusually low temperature and
turn out especially dense, moist, and flavorful. Makes
about 4 dozen
| 5 |
cups flour |
| 1 |
cup sugar |
| 2 1/2 |
cups dry powdered milk |
| 4 |
tablespoons baking powder |
| 3 |
tablespoons cinnamon |
| 1 |
tablespoon salt |
| 1 1/2 |
cups brown sugar |
| 1 1/2 |
cup chopped walnuts |
| 4 |
large eggs (size does make a difference!) |
| 1 1/4 |
cups vegetable oil |
| 1 1/4 |
cups water |
| 2 |
20-ounce cans pumpkin (not pie filling) |
Preheat the
oven to 325°F. Grease 3-inch muffin tins or line
with paper.
Mix all the ingredients together.
The batter should be easily scoopable. If it is too
thick, add a little more water. Fill the tins three-quarters
full and bake for 40-45 minutes. Let the muffins cool
before removing from the pan.
Because they are so moist, these reheat
beautifully. |
Pumpkins
in the West
The bright orange pumpkins dotting the fields
throughout Colorado played a great role in Colorado history.
The first domesticated pumpkin was grown in 7000 B.c. in Mexico's
northeastern Tamaulipas region. Seeds were traded to other
tribes, and by 3000 B.C. pumpkins had traveled to Puebla, Mexico.
Within another five hundred years, pumpkins had journeyed as
far as Peru.
Pumpkins went north, too. The basket makers
in the Durango and Mesa Verde areas of Colorado grew them before
A.D. 400. The staple Indian diet consisted of corn, beans,
and various squashes, including our common pumpkin. When the
fur trappers came west in the early 1800's, pumpkin became
a major part of the diet of mountain men such as Kit Carson,
Uncle Dick Wootton, and others who frequented the original
Bent's Fort.
On an 1842 visit to Fort Lupton, Rufus Sage
tells of a trading party of Mexicans from Taos who brought
with them packhorses and mules laden with corn, bread, beans,
onions, and dried pumpkin to barter for buffalo robes, furs,
guns, and tobacco sold at Fort Lancaster (later known as Fort
Lupton).
Today thousands of pumpkins are grown near
Fort Lupton. But the pumpkin in North America has lost its
many uses, and only pumpkin pies and jack-o'-lanterns remain
popular. At the Fort we keep the tradition of this noble squash
alive in our Pumpkin Walnut Muffins, probably our most sought
after recipe.
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Puches
Ingredients |
2 |
tablespoons of water |
2 |
teaspoons texquite, *a native leavening
agent from New Mexico (substitute baking soda) |
4 3/4 |
cups sifted flour |
1 |
teaspoon baking powder |
1 |
teaspoon anise seed |
1 |
teaspoon salt |
1 1/2 |
cups shortening |
1 |
cup sugar |
4 |
eggs, well beaten |
2 |
ounces dark rum |
Mix water with texquite and let sit for 6
minutes. Strain out solids and save the liquid to add to recipe.
With beater, cream the shortening with the sugar until fluffy,
adding sugar gradually. Mix dry ingredients: flour, salt, anise,
and baking powder. To creamed shortening, add the eggs and
dry ingredients, beating steadily. Then, beat in the rum. Refrigerate
the dough for 6 hours. Flour your hands, then pinch off English
walnut-sized balls of dough. Dip balls in flour and roll out
between hands to make a five-inch-long rope, approximately
one-half-inch in diameter. Shape into a loop or ring with overlapping
ends well pressed together. Bake on an ungreased cookie sheet
at 350° F for 20 minutes, or until delicate brown. Be quick
forming the loops, as the batter is soft like a cake batter.
(Translated by Sam Arnold from Nuevo Concinero Mejicano.)
*Texquite, or more correctly, tequesquite,
is a crude sodium bicarbonate that forms on the banks of mineral
springs in New Mexico. It is also found near several New Mexico
lakes. According to Curtin, cocineras, or cooks, wanting specially
light and fluffy cakes substituted tequesquite for commercial
baking powder.
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Marquesotes,
or Marquis Cakes
Ingredients |
8 |
eggs |
1 |
pound sweet almonds, soaked overnight, then ground fine |
1/2 |
pound sugar |
1/2 |
pound corn starch |
Beat the eggs well, mixing lots of air in
them. While beating, add the sugar and ground almonds. Gradually
add the starch to make a dough. Pour it into greased iron or
tin cookie molds and bake in a medium-hot oven. These may also
be baked on a comal. They are noble cookies, well suited to
a marquis's taste. (Translated by Sam Arnold from Nuevo Concinero
Mejicano.)
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Fort
Guacamole
I ate my first salsa cruda years ago at Sanborn's
in Mexico City. It was simply tomato, onion, and serrano chile
finely diced, with a dash of salt, a squeeze of lime juice,
and whole-leaf cilantro. My belief is that guacamole originated
when someone purposely (or otherwise) dropped some ripe avocado
in a bowl of salsa and mixed it up. The basic recipe for guacamole
in Mexico is just that: a combination of salsa cruda with avocado.
-Sam Arnold
This recipe has been chosen by the
local press as "Denver's Best Guacamole."
3 |
Ripe avocados, pitted an peeled |
3 |
whole serrano chiles, finely minced |
1/2 |
teaspoon salt |
1/4 |
cup freshly squeezed lime juice |
2 |
large tomatoes, finely diced |
1 |
large onion, finely diced |
1/4 |
cup whole fresh cilantro leaves (no stems) |
Combine the ingredients in a large
bowl, mashing the avocado with a fork or potato masher
and leaving small lumps in the mixture. Don't use a
food processor to dice the tomato and onion, because
the texture of your guacamole will be much better if
not too finely chopped. It's also necessary to use
serrano chilies instead of jalapeños.
Taste for sufficient lime juice and
add more serranos as your taste dictates. Serve with
freshly fried corn tortilla chips.
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Sam's
Cooking Tips
The Game Plate
Quail is delicious when marinated
for 2 - 4 hours in a teriyaki marinade but beware
of marinating any longer because the bird will become unpalatably
salty. Grill quail for 3 -4 minutes on each side.
NOTE: At the Fort we like to lightly
season our elk and buffalo, then grill to rare or medium-rare,
preferably over an open flame.
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Buffalo Steaks and Burgers
Cooking buffalo is much like cooking
beef, except that it is extremely low in fat and therefore
steaks should be kept rare or medium-rare to avoid toughening
when grilling. Cook burgers to medium temperature (160 °)
approximately 3 - 4 minutes per side. Sprinkle the steaks
and burgers with salt and pepper while they are cooking.
Do not pat or squash the meat while cooking -you'll squeeze
the delicious juices out. Because it contains less fat
than beef and chicken, buffalo cooks much faster.
NOTE: At the Fort we like to serve
our steaks "Gonzales style,"stuffed with roasted
green chiles; "Incorrect,"topped with a fried egg,
Dixon red chile sauce and melted cheddar cheese; or simply
topped with a dollop of butter, sautéed mushrooms
and garlic.
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Buffalo Roasts
Slow oven-roasting is best for prime
rib and tenderloin roasts because the low temperature
will not drive out all of the delicious juices, resulting
in moist and tender meat. We recommend
cooking a roast at 250° F for 18 minutes per pound or until a
meat thermometer reads 125°F for rare or 138 °F
for medium-rare. Because buffalo is so lean, you should
never over cook buffalo or it will become tough. Remove
the roast from the oven and allow to rest for 15
- 20 minutes before carving. The temperature will rise
about 10 °F while resting, bringing the meat to the
correct serving temperature.
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